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Wait, don’t throw out the babies! Or, sautéed fish roe is mighty fine

The ice is still safe–it was twenty-two inches at Long Pond yesterday–but I hear a suspicious dripping sound coming from the trees behind the house. This time of change is when many fish are laden with eggs, or roe. Yellow perch roe sacs can be up to five inches in length, their smaller cousins, white […]

Hey Baby, look at all that Bayberry!

I forage as much for the pleasure of the hunt as for the tasty reward I bring home to my kitchen. Sunny autumn afternoons peering at the base of oak trees for maitake and dark summer evenings jigging for squid are deeply satisfying ways to spend time. Some harvests are so plentiful, however, that there […]

Consider the oyster mushroom

The fleeting oyster mushroom season is here. In early June I start scanning the Aspen groves for a flash these luminous, pale fungi which grow in layers like shelves off the tree trunks. It is usually a week or even three after I start looking that I spot the first ones. We go to collect, […]